Builder-Grade Components: What to Expect (and When)

In many production homes - especially those built in the last 20 to 30 years - builder-grade materials and fixtures follow predictable failure patterns. These aren’t always safety issues, but they can affect buyer satisfaction and post-closing expenses. Here’s a quick guide to the lifespan of common builder-grade items:

🪟 Windows (Vinyl, Builder-Grade): 10–15 years

Fogged panes, failed seals, or poor operation are common. Replacements aren’t cheap, especially in multi-level homes.

🚿 Plumbing Fixtures (Faucets, Valves, Shower Trim): 5–10 years

Plastic internals or soft metal finishes often corrode, leak, or break with normal use. Anti-scald valves are frequently misadjusted.

🚽 Toilets (Builder Standard Models): 10–15 years

You may see weak flushing power, worn-out flappers, or ghost flushing. Parts are replaceable, but full replacement may be better long term.

🚪 Interior Doors (Hollow Core): 10–20 years

Prone to dings, dents, and poor sound insulation. Often replaced during remodels for appearance or performance reasons.

🛠️ Cabinets & Hardware (Particleboard, Basic Hinges): 10–15 years

Watch for sagging doors, loose handles, or peeling laminate. Drawer boxes may separate or slide poorly.

🏠 Caulking & Sealants (Around Wet Areas & Trim): 5–10 years

Builder-grade caulk often fails early, leading to water intrusion behind tubs, showers, and windows.

🪵 Flooring (Laminate, Thin LVP): 10–15 years (or less in high-traffic areas)

Builder-grade flooring often scratches easily or delaminates with moisture exposure.

What does hail damage do to a roof?

In Colorado, hailstorms are just part of life - but the damage they leave behind isn’t always obvious. Hail typically doesn’t cause instant leaks or dramatic holes in your roof. Instead, it breaks down the protective outer layer of your shingles over time. What may look like a few harmless marks or missing granules today can quietly evolve into costly water intrusion later.

The catch? Hail damage often isn’t visible from the ground and doesn’t show its full impact right away. That’s why many homeowners don’t realize their roof is compromised until there’s a leak.

Here’s how to stay ahead of the storm:

✅ Walk your property after a hailstorm. Look for dented gutters, downspouts, or window screens. If those are damaged, your roof likely took a hit too.

✅ Check for shingle granules in your gutters or downspouts. Granule loss is one of the earliest signs of hail wear.

✅ Use a drone or binoculars (or hire a pro!) to scan for shingle discoloration or small circular spots.

✅ Document the date of the storm. Insurance timelines can be strict - having a record is key if you need to file a claim later.

✅ Schedule a professional roof inspection. Even if your roof looks fine, a qualified roofing specialist can spot what you can’t.

Can you tell if the roof has “impact resistant class 4 shingles”? It’s a common question we hear as home inspectors - especially after hail season or when homeowners are dealing with insurance. Unfortunately, the answer isn’t simple.

There’s no way to visually confirm if asphalt shingles are Class 4 (impact-resistant) just by looking at them during a home inspection. The only reliable way to verify this rating is through the manufacturer’s specification sheet, which lists the product’s performance rating.

In rare cases, there may be labeling on the back side of a shingle, but that would require removing part of your roof - not exactly ideal.

Here’s how you can try to track it down:

• Look through any roof replacement or installation documents

• Check for permits or materials listed in the city’s permit history

• Contact the roofing company that installed the roof - if known

If you have concrete tile, metal, or other non-asphalt roofing, these are generally considered inherently impact-resistant, even without a Class 4 label.

At Alpine Building Performance, we believe in proactive homeownership. If your roof’s history is unclear and you’ve been through a hailstorm, now’s the time to look into it before small issues become big ones.

Garage Door Maintenance

We recently sat down with local garage door expert, Louie Wilson, Owner of Ascent Garage Doors to discuss some of the most common questions that we get about garage doors. Here is what Louie had to say.

How often do you recommend garage door maintenance?

We recommend annually or every other year in order to maintain proper spring balance and make sure there isn’t any progressive failure of components that could cause larger problems.

How much does a standard garage door service/tune-up cost and what does it include?

My full price door and opener servicing costs $120, but I often run specials for $60-100. This includes a comprehensive inspection of panels, hinges, bearing, cables, drums, track and opener for any irregularities. I also re-tension the springs for proper balance as well as make any adjustments to the door to make things run as smoothly as possible. Finally, we check the opener limits and sensitivity.

Why is it important to regularly service a garage door?

Regular service greatly reduces the risk of large problems with your door coming off track, getting suck, or even panels falling, which is a huge safety hazard.

Are there things a homeowner can do to help maintain a garage door or ensure good working condition?

I recommend homeowner lubricant and tighten hinges 1-2 times per year. Do not use grease or silicone-based lubricants. Lubricate the springs, hinges, roller and end bearings. There’s no need to overspray, the lubricant will work itself into the areas it’s needed. Don’t over tighten hinge bolts as they can strip out on wood and steel doors.

How long does a typical garage door opener/motor last?

I consider opener life expectancy to be around 15 years. It’s not uncommon for them to last longer, but sometimes it’s less. Genie brand openers tend to have a shorter than normal life expectancy.

What’s the price range to replace a garage door opener/motor?

$500 for a basic motor. $900 for a deluxe model.

What is the price range to replace a garage door?

Hollow or vinyl backed single doors start at $1000 and double doors at $1700, but we do not recommend these types of doors, as they’re cheap and unreliable and will likely cost you more in the long run. I recommend steel sandwich doors. They are much more durable and long lasting. Single doors start at $1400 and doubles start at $2300. Adding windows or woodgrain colors or specialty insulation will increase price about 30-50%. More unique, boutique type doors can start at $3000single/$5000 double and go up to $15,000-$20,000 for double doors.

How Much Does It Cost To Install An Electric Car Charger At Home?

If you’ve recently joined the growing number of electric vehicle (EV) owners in Colorado, one of the first questions you might have is: “How much will it cost to install an electric car charger at home?” While the price can vary depending on your setup and the type of charger you choose, we’ve broken down the typical costs, what influences them, and how to plan for your installation.

In the Denver metro area, the average cost to install a Level 2 EV charger at home typically ranges from $500 to $2,000. This price includes both the charger unit and professional installation by a licensed electrician.

• Level 1 Charger: Usually included with your vehicle, plugs into a standard outlet, and has minimal to no installation cost — but it’s slow, often taking 20+ hours for a full charge.

• Level 2 Charger: Requires a 240-volt outlet (similar to an electric dryer) and charges much faster — typically 4–8 hours for a full charge. This is the most common choice for homeowners upgrading their setup.

Cost Factors to Consider

1. Type of Charger

   • Plug-in model: Easier to install; can be moved if you relocate.

   • Hardwired model: Cleaner look and more permanent; often preferred for outdoor installs.

2. Electrical Panel Capacity

   • If your panel has enough capacity, installation is straightforward.

   • If you need an electrical panel upgrade, costs can increase by $1,000–$3,000.

3. Distance from Panel to Charger Location

   • Running wiring across a garage or to a detached structure can add labor and material costs.

4. Permits and Code Requirements

   • Many Colorado municipalities require a permit and inspection for EV charger installation.

   • Permit fees range from $50 to $200 on average.

5. Additional Features

   • Smart chargers with Wi-Fi, app controls, and scheduling features cost more upfront but can save on energy costs long-term.

Potential Rebates and Incentives

Colorado is one of the more EV-friendly states when it comes to incentives. Depending on your location and utility provider, you may qualify for:

• Xcel Energy rebates (up to $500 for home charger installation)

• Federal tax credits (up to 30% of equipment and installation costs, capped at $1,000)

• Additional state or local incentives that can significantly reduce your out-of-pocket expense

Tip: Always check current rebate programs before scheduling installation.

Getting Started

If you’re in the Denver metro area, start by contacting a licensed electrician with EV charger installation experience. Ask for:

• A site visit to assess your electrical panel

• A written estimate with a breakdown of labor, materials, and permit fees

• Guidance on charger brands and features best suited for your driving habits

Bottom Line

For most Colorado homeowners, $500–$2,000 is a realistic range for a standard Level 2 charger installation. Costs can be much lower if you already have the right electrical setup — or higher if major upgrades are needed. With available rebates and the convenience of charging at home, many EV owners find the investment pays off quickly in both time saved and driving convenience.

What’s a Heat Pump and why should you know the answer?

A heat pump is basically an air conditioner that also provides heating in addition to cooling. Heat pumps work by transferring heat from one place to another. In the winter, it extracts heat from the outside air and transfers it inside the home. In the summer, it does the reverse, removing heat from inside the home and releasing it outside. Heat pumps are up to four times more efficient than traditional heating!

Although this HVAC technology may sound new, it’s not. Heat pumps have been used as primary heating and cooling systems in homes since the 1970’s, but were limited to warmer more southern climates due to the heat pumps inability to source enough heat from the exterior in the winter. That has changed with the development and advancement of “cold climate air source heat pumps”. Cold climate air source heat pumps can reliably heat a home down to 0 degrees outside temperature or even lower. These systems can be combined with a gas furnace or electric resistance backup for more reliability.

Ok this is cool, but why should you know about heat pumps?

Because heat pumps are more efficient and do not require natural gas to operate, they are becoming increasingly popular at a fast pace. Denver, Xcel Energy, the state energy office and the federal government are heavily incentivizing the switch to heat pump technology with substantial rebates and tax credits. It’s possible to replace a standard A/C unit with a heat pump that will provide all of the cooling the A/C provided, along with reliable heating as well. Heat pump technology has also been applied to water heating and is a more efficient water heating option than a standard tank unit.

For more information on available local rebates, check out our Energy Efficiency and Electrification Resource Guide.

What To Know About Aluminum Wiring

If you are purchasing a home built or renovated between the mid 1960’s and the mid 1970’s it’s important that your inspector look closely to identify if single-strand aluminum wiring is present. The below article “Inspecting Aluminum Wiring” written by InterNACHI explains what aluminum wire is, why it’s important and what to do about it.

Inspecting Aluminum Wiring by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard 

Between approximately 1965 and 1973, single-strand (solid) aluminum wiring was sometimes substituted for copper branch-circuit wiring in residential electrical systems due to the sudden escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, inherent weaknesses were discovered in the metal that lead to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Aluminum will become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. Neglected connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures containing aluminum wiring become increasingly dangerous over time. Poor connections cause wiring to overheat, creating a potential fire hazard. In addition, the presence of single-strand aluminum wiring may void a home’s insurance policies. Inspectors may instruct their clients to talk with their insurance agents about whether the presence of aluminum wiring in their home is a hazard, a defect, and a problem that requires changes to their policy language.

According to the InterNACHI Home Inspection Standards of Practice, a home inspector is required to report upon single-strand, solid conductor aluminum branch-circuit wiring, if observed by the home inspector. 

Facts and Figures 

• On April, 28, 1974, two people were killed in a house fire in Hampton Bays, New York. Fire officials determined that the fire was caused by a faulty aluminum wire connection at an outlet.

• According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), "Homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 ['old technology' aluminum wire] are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than is a home wired with copper."

Aluminum as a Metal
Aluminum possesses certain qualities that, compared with copper, make it an undesirable material as an electrical conductor. These qualities all lead to loose connections, where fire hazards become likely. These qualities are as follows:

• higher electrical resistance. Aluminum has a high resistance to electrical current flow, which means that, given the same amperage, aluminum conductors must be of a larger diameter than would be required by copper conductors.

• less ductile. Aluminum will fatigue and break down more readily when subjected to bending and other forms of abuse than copper, which is more ductile. Fatigue will cause the wire to break down internally and will increasingly resist electrical current, leading to a buildup of excessive heat.

• galvanic corrosion.  In the presence of moisture, aluminum will undergo galvanic corrosion when it comes into contact with certain dissimilar metals.

• oxidation. Exposure to oxygen in the air causes deterioration to the outer surface of the wire. This process is called oxidation. Aluminum wire is more easily oxidized than copper wire, and the compound formed by this process – aluminum oxide – is less conductive than copper oxide. As time passes, oxidation can deteriorate connections and present a fire hazard.  

• greater malleability. Aluminum is soft and malleable, meaning it is highly sensitive to compression. After a screw has been over-tightened on aluminum wiring, for instance, the wire will continue to deform or “flow” even after the tightening has ceased. This deformation will create a loose connection and increase electrical resistance in that location.

• greater thermal expansion and contraction. Even more than copper, aluminum expands and contracts with changes in temperature. Over time, this process will cause connections between the wire and the device to degrade. For this reason, aluminum wires should never be inserted into the “stab,” “bayonet” or “push-in” type terminations found on the back of many light switches and outlets.

• excessive vibration. Electrical current vibrates as it passes through wiring. This vibration is more extreme in aluminum than it is in copper, and, as time passes, it can cause connections to loosen.

Identifying Aluminum Wiring

• Aluminum wires are the color of aluminum and are easily discernible from copper and other metals.

• Since the early 1970s, wiring-device binding terminals for use with aluminum wire have been marked CO/ALR, which stands for “copper/aluminum revised."

• Look for the word "aluminum" or the initials "AL" on the plastic wire jacket. Where wiring is visible, such as in the attic or electrical panel, inspectors can look for printed or embossed letters on the plastic wire jacket. Aluminum wire may have the word "aluminum," or a specific brand name, such as "Kaiser Aluminum," marked on the wire jacket. Where labels are hard to read, a light can be shined along the length of the wire.

• When was the house built? Homes built or expanded between 1965 and 1973 are more likely to have aluminum wiring than houses built before or after those years.

Options for Correction

Aluminum wiring should be evaluated by a qualified electrician who is experienced in evaluating and correcting aluminum wiring problems. Not all licensed electricians are properly trained to deal with defective aluminum wiring. The CPSC recommends the following two methods for correction for aluminum wiring:

• Rewire the home with copper wire. While this is the most effective method, rewiring is expensive and impractical, in most cases.

• Use copalum crimps. The crimp connector repair consists of attaching a piece of copper wire to the existing aluminum wire branch circuit with a specially designed metal sleeve and powered crimping tool. This special connector can be properly installed only with the matching AMP tool. An insulating sleeve is placed around the crimp connector to complete the repair. Although effective, they are expensive (typically around $50 per outlet, switch or light fixture).

Although not recommended by the CPSC as methods of permanent repair for defective aluminum wiring, the following methods may be considered:

• application of anti-oxidant paste. This method can be used for wires that are multi-stranded or wires that are too large to be effectively crimped.

• pigtailing. This method involves attaching a short piece of copper wire to the aluminum wire with a twist-on connector. the copper wire is connected to the switch, wall outlet or other termination device. This method is only effective if the connections between the aluminum wires and the copper pigtails are extremely reliable. Pigtailing with some types of connectors, even though Underwriters Laboratories might presently list them for the application, can lead to increasing the hazard. Also, beware that pigtailing will increase the number of connections, all of which must be maintained. Aluminum Wiring Repair (AWR), Inc., of Aurora, Colorado, advises that pigtailing can be useful as a temporary repair or in isolated applications, such as the installation of a ceiling fan.

• CO/ALR connections. According to the CPSC, these devices cannot be used for all parts of the wiring system, such as ceiling-mounted light fixtures or permanently wired appliances and, as such, CO/ALR connections cannot constitute a complete repair. Also, according to AWR, these connections often loosen over time.

• alumiconn. Although AWR believes this method may be an effective temporary fix, they are wary that it has little history, and that they are larger than copper crimps and are often incorrectly applied. 

• Replace certain failure-prone types of devices and connections with others that are more compatible with aluminum wire.

• Remove the ignitable materials from the vicinity of the connections.

In summary, aluminum wiring can be a fire hazard due to inherent qualities of the metal. Inspectors should be capable of identifying this type of wiring.

https://www.nachi.org/aluminum-wiring.htm

How Often Should You Paint Your Home’s Exterior?

Repainting your home's exterior isn't just about curb appeal, it's a key part of protecting your investment. On average, most homes need a fresh coat of paint every 5 to 10 years, but that timeline can vary based on local climate, siding material, and the quality of the last paint job.

Watch for signs it’s time to repaint:

• Fading or chalky residue

• Cracking, peeling, or blistering paint

• Exposed wood or raw siding

Of course, exterior maintenance goes beyond just paint. Regular cleaning, power washing, and timely repairs can extend the life of your paint job and keep your home looking sharp. And when the time comes to repaint, investing in high-quality materials and a skilled professional makes all the difference.

A well-maintained exterior doesn’t just boost value - it helps prevent costly repairs down the line.

Sump Pump vs. Sewage Ejector Pump: What’s the Difference?

When it comes to keeping your basement dry and your plumbing flowing smoothly, two systems often come into play: sump pumps and sewage ejector pumps. While they may sound similar, they serve very different purposes. Here's a breakdown to help you understand the difference and why it matters.

What Is a Sump Pump?

A sump pump is designed to remove groundwater that collects in a sump pit, usually located in the lowest part of a basement or crawlspace. This pump activates automatically when water levels rise and sends the water away from the home, often through a discharge pipe that leads outside.

Purpose:

Prevent basement flooding

Protect foundation from water damage

Manage high water tables or heavy rains

Common in Homes With:

Basements below the water table

Poor exterior drainage

History of water intrusion

What Is a Sewage Ejector Pump?

A sewage ejector pump is used to pump out wastewater from bathrooms, laundry rooms, or other plumbing fixtures located below the main sewer or septic line. Since gravity alone can’t move waste upward, an ejector pump is installed to push it up into the main sewer system.

Purpose:

Move solid and liquid waste from basement bathrooms or laundry

Prevent sewage backups

Comply with plumbing code in finished basements

Includes a Sealed Pit: Unlike a sump pit, a sewage ejector basin must be sealed to contain odors and gases, and is connected to a vent stack.

If you’re finishing your basement or purchasing a home with plumbing below grade, make sure your system is correctly installed and maintained.

Top 10 Inspection Topics Every Colorado Agent Should Understand

We are always impressed when an agent is able to intelligently communicate inspection findings and knowledge to their client during the inspection process. Having a working knowledge of common inspection issues can help you set expectations, avoid surprises, and win major credibility with clients.

Here are the top 10 home inspection topics every residential agent in Colorado should be familiar with:

🏠 Top 10 Inspection Topics in Colorado

1. Aluminum Wiring
   Common in homes built mid-60s to mid-70s. Is a fire hazard if not properly repaired and is flagged for detailed evaluation and repair.

2. Federal Pacific & Zinsco Panels
   These outdated electrical panels are known to fail under load and are always called out for replacement.

3. High Radon Levels
   Radon is common in Colorado due to our geology. Anything ≥ 4.0 pCi/L is recommended for mitigation.

4. Polybutylene & Galvanized Pipes
   These older plumbing materials are prone to failure and often lead to insurance or resale concerns.

5. Aging HVAC Systems
   Furnaces over 25 years and A/Cs over 15 years are at or near end-of-life. 

6. Asbestos-Containing Materials
   Common in older homes (especially popcorn ceilings, duct wrap and flooring). Asbestos can’t be confirmed visually and testing is required for confirmation.

7. Roof Age & Condition
   Understanding roof hail damage and claims is key in our climate. Knowing what to do with an inspector's findings is key.  Insurance companies often require documentation or inspection.

8. Grading & Drainage Issues
   Poor grading can lead to foundation moisture issues, especially with Benonite clay soils in Colorado.

9. Sewer Line Concerns
   Root intrusion, bellies, and breaks are common. Sewer scopes are highly recommended—even on newer homes.

10. Structural Movement
    Colorado’s expansive Bentonite clay soils can cause foundation shifting or settlement cracks. Minor cracks = common. Major displacement = concern.

How to Know if You Can Add Air Conditioning to a Heat-Only Home

This is one of the most common questions we get from buyers touring homes without air conditioning: Can I add A/C?

The short answer is yes—you can add A/C to almost any home. The longer answer? It depends on the home’s existing heating system, the budget, and how much work you're prepared to take on. Here’s a quick breakdown of what to consider when evaluating this with your clients.

Key Factors to Consider:

1. Forced Air Furnace = Easiest Path
   If the home already has a forced air furnace, that’s great news. The ductwork is already in place, so installing a central A/C system is typically straightforward and cost-effective.
   

2. Boiler System = Bigger Lift
   Homes heated by a boiler (radiators, baseboards, etc.) do not have ductwork, so adding central A/C will require installing a separate duct system. An increasingly popular alternative? Ductless mini-split systems, which are easier to retrofit and provide room-by-room control.
   

3. Evaporative Cooler Present?
   It’s a common misconception that an existing swamp cooler limits your A/C options. In reality, evaporative coolers and A/C systems operate independently. A home can technically have both—but most homeowners opt to remove the evaporative cooler once A/C is installed.
   

BOTTOM LINE:
Almost every home can be upgraded with air conditioning, but the cost and complexity vary greatly depending on the existing heating setup. Knowing what system is in place—and what alternatives are available—can help set the right expectations for your buyers and open the door for helpful vendor referrals.

Pro tip: If installing A/C, consider heat pump options that provide both heating and cooling. Split system heat pumps are available that look and operate just like a traditional A/C, but with the added benefit of providing efficient heating to supplement a furnace. 

Colorado Reg 8: What You Need to Know About Asbestos Compliance

Colorado’s Regulation 8 requires asbestos inspection and compliance whenever renovation or demolition disturbs a certain amount of material, regardless of the home’s age—since even new buildings can contain asbestos.

Key Takeaways:

Age Doesn’t Exempt You

Reg 8 triggers inspection requirements based on the amount of material disturbed.

Under Colorado Reg 8, any renovation or demolition that disturbs asbestos-containing materials (ACM) must be inspected if the following thresholds are exceeded in a single-family dwelling:

• 50 linear feet of pipe insulation

• 32 square feet of other surface materials (e.g. drywall, ceiling texture)

• Or the volume equivalent to a 55‑gallon drum of material

Know the Thresholds

Under Colorado Reg 8, any renovation or demolition that disturbs asbestos-containing materials (ACM) must be inspected if the following thresholds are exceeded in a single-family dwelling:

• 50 linear feet of pipe insulation

• 32 square feet of other surface materials (e.g. drywall, ceiling texture)

• Or the volume equivalent to a 55‑gallon drum of material

Permitting and Timing

If asbestos is found—or assumed—the contractor must notify CDPHE and wait 10 working days before removing it. Skipping this step can result in permit delays and fines.

Best Practice

When advising clients on renovations or inspections, remind them to ask about Reg 8 testing early with their contractor, and verify it’s completed if their scope triggers the thresholds.

If you plan any remodel or demolition—even in newer homes—make sure asbestos compliance under Reg 8 is on your radar. Our intention is to educate, not alarm. We want to ensure that our clients are properly informed so that future costly surprises are avoided.

Heat Pumps vs. Traditional HVAC: Which Provides More Comfort & Control

Home comfort comes up in the buying journey, especially with older homes. But the comfort difference isn't just about temperature. Let's break down why heat pumps are quietly revolutionizing how homes feel with consistent, zoned comfort and cleaner air. Scroll to the end of this email for exclusive savings offers.

Temperature Consistency

Furnaces work by blasting super hot air, waiting for the ambient temperature to drop to an uncomfortable level, then cycling back on. Heat pumps provide steady, consistent temperatures based on your precise settings.

Heat pumps are the Goldilocks appliance

Maintaining a consistent temperature that’s not too cold, not too hot, but just right. Not the rollercoaster ride of traditional heating.

Heat Pumps are a Win-Win for Buyers & Sellers

• Instant buyer impression: Comfort is felt within minutes of entering

• Health appeal: No indoor air pollution from burning gas

• Modern expectation: Outselling gas furnaces since 2022

• Federal & local incentives: $2K federal tax credit makes upgrades attractive, the average Xcel rebate for a heat pump system is $8K

Heat pumps have moved from niche to mainstream in Colorado - they're efficient, comfortable and healthier to live in.

Air Quality of Clean Electric vs. Combustion Fumes

Heat pumps don't burn anything, which means no unhealthy fumes in your home like gas furnaces produce.

• Health Benefits: No combustion fumes, better air circulation

• Impact: Cleaner indoor air, no stuffy rooms

• Buyer Value: health-conscious families, immediate comfort

• Especially valuable for families with allergies or buyers prioritizing indoor air quality.

Heat Pumps are Especially Attractive to Landlords and STR Hosts

Heat pump comfort is noticeable within minutes:

• No hot/cold blasts from vents

• Whisper-quiet operation (no furnace roar)

• Fresh, clean air without combustion odors

• Even temperatures throughout every room

Pro Tip: Airbnb hosts who actively market their eco-friendly bonafides, like heat pumps, attract environmentally conscious travelers and see increased occupancy.

Alpine Building Performance is Partnering with Zero Homes!
Are you a real estate agent who also owns a rental property or short-term rental? You may be eligible for $500 off your own heat pump installation with Zero Homes - just install by June 30 and use this exclusive referral code:ABP_ZERO

Looking to help your clients make their homes more energy-efficient?
Zero Homes is offering $500 if one of your clients purchases a heat pump with them by June 30. Simply give them this referral code: ABP_HEATPUMPS

Check out this free resource from Zero Homes:
Heat Pumps 101:A Guide for 2025

📞 Questions? Contact Zero Homes:
303-848-8606 - abp@zerohomes.io

R-410A Is Out, R-454B Is In – Here’s What You Need to Know

Another big shift is happening in the HVAC world that you need to be aware of. As of January 2025 the HVAC industry began phasing out R-410A refrigerant in A/C units and is switching to R-454B.

Didn’t this just happen with R-22?

Yes. The HVAC industry just completed the transition from R-22 to R-410A in 2020, and now they’re doing it again.

Why? Simply put, R-454B was chosen as a replacement to R-410A because it offers similar cooling performance but is about 4 times more environmentally friendly from an ozone and global warming standpoint.

Here’s what this means for you and your clients:

- Older A/C Systems: If a home has an HVAC unit with R-410A, it will still work - but servicing it will get pricier as the refrigerant becomes less available.

- Newer A/C Systems: After 2025, all new units will use R-454B, which isn’t compatible with older systems. That means replacing just part of an HVAC system won’t always be an option.

- For Buyers & Sellers: If a home’s A/C is 10+ years old, it’s worth checking the refrigerant type and planning ahead for potential costs.

Fortunately this phase out will be less abrupt than the R-22 phase out, but it’s good to be aware of so you can make informed decisions over the coming years.

How Long Does A Deck Typically Last And How Often Should A Wood Deck Be Sealed?

The lifespan of a wood deck can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of wood used, the climate in the area, the level of maintenance it receives, and the amount of foot traffic and exposure to the elements it experiences.

In general, a well-built and well-maintained wood deck can last anywhere from 10 to 30 years or more.

To help extend the life of a wood deck, it's important to regularly clean it and inspect it for any signs of damage or wear, such as loose boards or rotting wood. Additionally, applying a high-quality sealant or stain to the deck can help protect it from moisture, UV rays, and other environmental factors that can contribute to deterioration.

The frequency with which a wood deck should be sealed can depend on a number of factors, including the type of sealant used, the climate in the area, and the amount of use and exposure to the elements the deck experiences.

As a general rule, however, most experts recommend that homeowners plan to seal their wood decks every 1 to 3 years.

Some signs that it may be time to reseal the deck include faded or discolored wood, rough or splintered surfaces, or water that no longer beads up on the surface of the wood.

Check out this rebate and tax credit calculator for Colorado Homeowners

Did you know that there are significant rebates and tax incentives available for Colorado homeowners to help offset the cost of home energy efficiency and electrification upgrades? 

Sharing this info is a great touch point to your sphere, AND a potential way to leverage these rebates and incentives to help offset the repair or replacement costs of home inspection related repairs. 

To help distill this information, we have put together our own local incentive resource guide here. You can also check out this helpful calculator from Rewiring America here.

Make sure to take advantage of these incentives whenever possible and to educate your clients about what’s available to them. We have also linked our resource guide to our home inspection reports for all relevant recommendations for ease of reference. The last thing we want is for someone to leave this money on the table. 

As always, reach out to us with any questions.

What is “Home Hardening”?

Did you know that embers, not direct flames, are the main cause of house fires during a wildfire?

“Home Hardening” helps protect homes by making them more resistant to embers, heat, and flames. This includes modifying structural materials, design, and the surrounding environment.

Examples of some home hardening measures include:

• Use fire-resistant roofing (metal, tile, or Class A shingles).

• Cover vents with metal mesh (1/8-inch or finer).

• Seal gaps in eaves, rooflines, and siding.

• Replace combustible siding with fire-resistant materials like stucco or fiber-cement.

With increasing wildfire threats and insurance challenges, home harding will become more relevant in the coming years. Educate yourself now to stay ahead of the curve and prepare your home for the evolving homeowners insurance requirements.

To learn more about home hardening, check out this link:

Here is an example of a home spared in the recent LA fires aided largely by home hardening measures:

What is the probability of Lead Based Paint pre-1978?

We all know that lead based paint (LBP) is a concern for pre-1978 homes, but did you know that the probability of LBP being present in a home heavily depends on its year of construction.

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA):

• Homes built before 1940, Appx. 87% contain lead-based paint.

• Homes built between 1940-60, appx. 69% contain lead-based paint.

• Homes built between 1960-78, appx. 24% contain lead-based paint.

The use of lead-based paint was banned in residential properties in the U.S. in 1978, so homes built after that year are unlikely to contain it. As with any environmental testing, the only way to confirm the presence of something is to test, but these figures can help you to better understand LBP risks by construction date.

Fortunately we now know that lead is a neurotoxin and should never have been used in household paint, but why was it ever used to begin with?

• Durability - Lead in paint increased durability, longevity and moisture resistance.

• Fast drying times - Lead sped up the paint drying process.

• Color enhancement - Lead pigments provided brighter and longer lasting color.

• Corrosion resistance - Lead helps protect metal from rust.

Lead is still permitted in certain industrial applications such as road and parking markers and in exterior industrial applications such as steel bridges, but was banned in residential paint and coatings in 1978.

How Recent LA Wildfires May Impact Colorado Homeowners Insurance

Homeowners insurance in Colorado's foothills has become increasingly challenging since the Marshall Fire in December 2021, which caused over $2B in damages. The recent wildfires in Los Angeles and rising natural disasters nationwide are straining the insurance industry, and Colorado homeowners will feel the impact sooner than you may think.

Insurers are reassessing wildfire risks, potentially leading to:

Premium Increases: Higher rates in wildfire-prone areas like Colorado. Local insurers are now saying that it’s not just the foothills that are being assessed as high wildfire risk.

Policy Cancellations: Many carriers are not renewing policies in high-risk areas, especially the foothills.

Stricter Coverage Requirements: Homeowners may need fire mitigation measures (e.g., defensible space, home hardening) to maintain coverage. On site inspections will be required in many cases to obtain and maintain coverage.

Reduced Coverage Options: Some insurers may limit wildfire claims or cap payouts. The Colorado FAIR Plan will provide basic coverage, but it may come with challenges.

Now is the time to educate yourself and clients on fire mitigation. More to come on "Home Hardening" and what you need to know to keep your homes protected.